Skip to main content
Frankly

Hiring Guide

14 questions to ask a roofer before you sign

The same questions Frankly asks every contractor on behalf of a homeowner — organized so you can run through them in a 20-minute kitchen-table conversation.

Updated June 2026 · 7 min read · By Frankly Consulting, independent roofing consultant in Southern California

Roofers who run a real business expect this conversation. Ones who don't will get defensive, change the subject, or offer a discount to skip it. Either way, you'll have your answer in 20 minutes.

Credentials (Q1–Q3)

Q1. What's your CSLB license number, and how long has it been active?

What you're listening for: Verify the number at cslb.ca.gov. Look for C-39 classification, an issue date 10+ years ago, no recent disciplinary actions, and an active bond. A license under 3 years old isn't disqualifying — but it raises the bar on references.

Q2. Can you email me your workers' comp and general liability certificates, with me named as additional insured?

What you're listening for: If a roofer is hurt on your property and there's no workers' comp, the claim attaches to your homeowner policy. A reputable contractor returns both certificates the same day.

Q3. Who actually does the work — your crew, or a subcontractor?

What you're listening for: Subcontracting isn't bad, but you need to know. Ask for the sub's license number too, and confirm the GC carries comp coverage for sub crews. Many SoCal roofers run two crews — an A-team and a B-team. Make sure you're getting the A-team.

Scope of work (Q4–Q7)

Q4. Will this be a full tear-off or an overlay?

What you're listening for: Overlays (a second layer of shingles over the first) are cheaper short-term but disqualify most manufacturer warranties, add weight, and hide problems with decking. Full tear-off is the right answer 95% of the time in California.

Q5. What underlayment are you using, and where will you install ice-and-water shield?

What you're listening for: Synthetic underlayment beats 30# felt almost everywhere now. Ice-and-water shield should be installed in valleys, around penetrations, and along eaves — even in SoCal, where wind-driven rain backs water under shingles.

Q6. What flashing are you replacing, and what stays?

What you're listening for: Step flashing, kickout flashing, drip edge, and pipe boots should all be new on a full re-roof. Re-using old flashing is the #1 source of leaks on otherwise-perfect roofs.

Q7. Is the ventilation balanced? How much intake and exhaust are we adding?

What you're listening for: A roof needs roughly 1 sq ft of net free vent area per 300 sq ft of attic, split evenly between intake (soffit) and exhaust (ridge). Many SoCal attics are exhaust-heavy, which shortens shingle life. A good roofer will measure and explain.

Materials & warranty (Q8–Q10)

Q8. Exactly which shingle line and color, and which warranty tier comes with it?

What you're listening for: Manufacturers offer 3 tiers: Standard (material only), System (material + small workmanship coverage), and Premium (full system + extended workmanship — typically only available through certified installers). Get this in writing.

Q9. Are you a certified installer with the manufacturer?

What you're listening for: GAF Master Elite, Owens Corning Platinum Preferred, CertainTeed SELECT — these certifications unlock the strongest warranties (50-year non-prorated, transferable) and require ongoing training. Not required, but a strong signal.

Q10. What's the workmanship warranty, and what happens if you close down?

What you're listening for: Workmanship warranties from the contractor are only as good as the contractor. Ask what manufacturer-backed coverage exists if the contractor isn't around in year 7 to honor it.

Schedule & payment (Q11–Q12)

Q11. When do you start, when do you expect to finish, and what's the milestone payment schedule?

What you're listening for: Get start and substantial-completion dates in the contract. Payment milestones (e.g., 10% down, 40% at material delivery, 40% at dry-in, 10% at final inspection) protect you better than calendar-based payments.

Q12. What's the down payment, and how do you handle change orders?

What you're listening for: Down payment 10% maximum (California law). Change orders should be written, signed, and priced before any extra work begins — never verbal.

After the job (Q13–Q14)

Q13. Can I get three references on roofs at least 12 months old, in my city?

What you're listening for: Aged references are the only ones that matter. New installs all look fine; problems show in the first rainy season. Ask to drive by, and if possible, talk to the homeowner.

Q14. Will you pull the permit, and will I see the final inspection report?

What you're listening for: Most SoCal cities require a permit for any re-roof. If a roofer offers to skip the permit 'to save money,' walk. No permit = no record, no inspection, no recourse, and a problem at resale.

Frequently asked questions

What questions should I ask a roofer before hiring?
Cover five areas in order: credentials (license, insurance, bond), scope (tear-off depth, underlayment, flashing, ventilation), materials (manufacturer, line, color, warranty tier), schedule and payment (start date, milestone payments, down payment under 10%), and warranty (manufacturer + workmanship, who honors it if the contractor closes). The 14 questions below cover all five.
Should I ask for references from a roofer?
Yes — but ask for references on roofs at least 12 months old. Brand-new installs all look fine; problems with flashing, ventilation, or workmanship usually surface in the first rainy season. Three local references on aging roofs beats ten references on jobs finished last month.
What if a roofer refuses to answer my questions?
That's your answer. A legitimate roofer expects a vetting conversation and has the documentation ready — license, insurance certificate, written scope, warranty paperwork. Vague answers, defensive tone, or 'trust me' replies are reasons to move on, not reasons to negotiate.
How much should a roofer ask for as a down payment?
In California, 10% or $1,000 (whichever is less) is the legal maximum down payment for home improvement contracts. Any roofer asking for 25%, 30%, or 50% upfront is either misinformed or running cash flow — both are reasons to walk.

Keep reading